Travel Report: A trip back into the future
by Armin Hey
A trip through Shangrila
It is not simply only one long-distance travel in a remote part of Asia, but also into another culture and other ways of life..
A trip to West Papua on the western, Indonesian side of New Guinea is a trip to another planet!
A trip to the only and last place of this earth where people live a 20,000 year old culture which until the present-day day remains virtually unchanged!
With my American friend and companion Kelly Woolford who lives in Bali and from there organizing Trekking Tours to West Papua, I undertake now my third trip to the country of the "Kraushaarigen", the actual meaning the word Papua.
The trip from Bali to Jayapura, situated on the northern side of the island near the border of Papua New Guinea and the provincial capital of West Papua, we take a full day and a full night's rest. With the morning sunrise on Jayapura, over heavenly atolls and untouched rain forest to the dark brown colors of the Highland mountain forests, comes over one the feeling, it expects us somewhat quite particular, quite different!
Differently already the hot and humid climate and the cordial greeting of this of Papua through a powerful Wah Wah Wah!
From the airport of Sentani, we drives remove in's 40 km Jayapura, by there 2 days on , to wait our continuation after Wamena, the actual goal of our trip. Jayapura is a modern city-his/its population a mixture from Immigrants from overcrowded areas of Indonesia and the Urbevölkerung, him/it, Papua. A trip toJayapura is a must! Admittedly, one gets his/its ticket after Wamena and the imperative SURAT JALAN, an entry visa, without which nothing go, also at the airport, but rummaging in the antique stores for Hammadi one Suburb Jayapuras and the nightly drift on the night markets of the city with to his/its fantastic smells and courts, it is worth a trip every time!
From Sentani after Wamena, we take a 45 minütigen voyage in a 25 year old Fokker propellers machine. Wamena is the head and arrival place in the 1600 Meter high situated GRAND BALIEM VALLEY-the central highland IRIAN JAY ACE!
Since the number of tourists of 7500 in the year 1996 on 2500 in the year 1998 went back and from it only a total of 350 during a Trekking tour outside Wamenas slept, the number of the native leaders is, that at the Airport on Newcomers wait big in order to offer her/its/their tours. Some friend, this, already about our arrival was informed, expects us and accompanies us in our Hotel. The informal flair and warm-hearted together between owners, Papua - The feeling gave at home us again to friends and us immediately and among friends , to be!
A first Trek approximately 200 meters to the market place in Wamena shows us - the "future “ move also holds enormously fast here! The Indonesian government flew in even more Muslim Umsiedler, this, Traffic virtually doubled within one year, more and more stores with this Achievements of the civilization originate and carry them/her/it always less Papua customary tribal official dress, that Koteka as well as the straw skirt. Zerschlissene T-shirt and shorts or pants prevail in the cityscape.
They the old customs arrested, only the Koteka, one, carry of Papua Penis protection from a pumpkin-similar fruit, the women a straw - as well as Lace-up skirt of orchid bast. He/it turns into the protection against the nightly cold Body with pig fat spreads, from which also a quite catchy smell go out!
Beside her/its/their babies, who always and everywhere are around-carried, they transport Women also young piglets, vegetables and sweet potatoes to the market. Not rarely can one, that a piglet becomes just as lovingly umsorgt, observe like the own one
Baby.! pigs what explains the high status is a sign of wealth. A man must pay his/its bride with pigs with the bride parents, for example. Possess a man many pigs, he/it can afford also several women. A marriage can from both sides is solved. In this case, he/it, that dissolves the marriage, must her/it Man as well as the woman's family at least the already paid bride price as Compensation pays back. Wamena also is called, "place of the pigs translates “.
Since body contact is estimated highly with this of Papua, a "Trek is “over the market and through the city always interconnected with zigfachem hand shake and also cordial embraces. Again and again, not only our bearers hold at the walk through the city, or simply with the side by side on the couch of the hotel our Hand.
Since one can absolutely assess this as signs of affection, gets involved little arising pride in us doesn't deny! After a visit in the "Mas Budhis Restaur. “and the consumption of one portion of giant river shrimps-a true one High pleasure! -we make another visit to the hotel on the way back with our friend Rahmat. Rahmat comes from Sulawesi, has lived for 10 years in Wamena and probably is of the of best the four antique stores Wamenas a manager. For somebody like me, that is intrigued, of the variety, beauty and expressiveness the wood piece art as well like from the objects of the everyday one stone age-like life's IRIAN JAY ACE, a wonderful place, to hold itself, one, open, , To drink coffee, to talk about God and the world, and, not to forgets to simply enjoy the life!
Arrived in the hotel, after a shower and a chattering little with Ibu (mother) Hanky, we begin with the preparations for our first, easier Trek. With a little experience, particularly the Kelly's, needs it of a quite low one Expenditure's, to organize our Trek. We pick 3 ourselves known Papua Friends as bearers for food, clothing and tent. You/they become the big ones Backpacks with in each case approximately 15 kg carry, we ourselves small backpacks with had a cookout drinking waters, a snack, camera and the most necessary at private Things. More than these 7-8 kg each, we would not manage on the basis of the climate. We send two of our friends to the market, about vegetables, with sufficiently money Fruit and, to shop similar. We ourselves, salt are concerned by about noodles, sugar, for us, Seasonings, candles etc... universe these things is considerable in Wamena more expensive than in the Rests of Indonesia, what is that finished product didn't produce in the Valley must be flown in. With the pile, we check our equipment like tent, Cook dishes, camera and, especially important, a well sorted travel pharmacy. One immediately should aim every touch of an illness and with the necessary seriousness treats! Every type of infection can turn into the serious danger for strangers! It is some routine helpful us also there and after a good hour, we have packed and is ready for the next morning.
The anticipation of the Trek let us awaken before the ringing of the alarm clock. After an extensive breakfast and the punctual one(s)!! arrival of our driver went it then about 7.00 o'clock finally free. After an almost two-hour trip with our chartered Bemo (minibus) on partially disastrous streets, we reach our point of departure. Not without a venue with our driver been amounted we run finally free to have, where he/it should pick us up again 3 days later. In 3 We become days in a big bow over Wolo, Usomo and Jabenda back to the street run. Already after 1 to 2 hours, one senses the fascination again Trekking! Runs, breathing, drinking, meals and sleeping, only after the rhythm of this Nature!! distracted of an indescribably beautiful landscape with his/its millennia of old silence mediating villages, we notice the physical one Effort usually only in the evening. While we pitch our tent begins , to cook our bearers. Fried sweet potatoes, cooked sweet potatoes, fried Koladi (very palatable potato-similar root fruit), Gemüsesuppe, from the finest things and to the dessert a strengthens highland coffee! The sweet potato- Ubi-amounts 80 percent of the food of this of highland Papua. She/it is very nourishing, taste good as cooked very well fried and serve also us on the Treks as Head and strength food.
As it is custom, we still sit with our friends after the meal and Hosts as well as also some curious visitors of the fire. Here, it then becomes none Indonesian more spoken! One speaks millennia old clan as well as Tribal languages. We require only a simple translation. Kelly Indonesisch is perfect, my own one after all sufficiently for an everyday conversation. For each Indonesian, only one foreign language is Indonesian, that with the independence in 1948, it was introduced. Main language always is the respective regional Mother tongue. 350 become approximately in West Papua alone, in entire new Guinea what amounts almost 25 percent of all languages of the earth spoken approximately 800 languages!
We go to sleep every evening about 20.00 o'clock, initially not what quite simply is. Admittedly we are physically totmüde, but our heads are wide-awake. The many Impressions of the behind day let our brain done and close we the eyes, innumerable pictures pass by at us. Our bearers sleep in the cottages (hat) of the villagers um's fires-we in our tent, what us him/it Contact with all sorts of small - and mini inhabitants, also like mosquitos, spares!
Our second day brings us on our next already a foretaste Trek. We almost run through beautiful forest uphill the whole day. We visits at the small place Usomo that lies on a rise and us one beautiful gaze in the surrounding valleys granted. An ideal place, about one, , to put in well-deserved break. We are welcome in all villages and of course also a welcome alternation for the villagers. In particularly astonished eyes, not only the the children, we always then see in the evening, if we our tent hit. The fewest of these people have a "house before “ in 2-Minuten-Bauweise seen.
The last day of our "warm-up-Treks “a hours-long descent is back to the Street. It is steep and rocky and there the rock partially quite brittle is, is highest caution offered! It also proves to be true here that it bodily much more exhausting is to be run as uphill downhill. One must even more intently on each stone, on each root, and the burden of the joints, watches especially it is of the knee joints enormous! One should thoughts of a bigger injury preferably ousts. The next hospital western standards is in Singapore and is in day flight trip one from Wamena off. One is included yes by no means in Wamena....!!! shortly before we reach the street, we must still several hundred meters through until marshy water deep to 50 cm wades. One not to misjudge smell lets us foreseen that the pigs of the surroundings here not only her/its/their bath takes but also her/its/their Notdurft in it perform. After all if we probably therefore remained spared from leeches!
How agrees, our driver appeared at the arranged place and so it came on the Afternoon back to Wamena. A little melancholy already packs us-gladly if we still had run 1 to 2 days longer, however überwiegte the anticipation on our next Trek, that us through dense rain forest to our actual one Goal, that Habema-See will lead. On the Habema-See landed in June 1938 of this Americans Richard Archbold as first white with a hydroplane in the central highland West PapuaS!
During the following 3 days, that we spent in Wamena, we got shut senses that the political and economic crisis in Indonesia also before her/it doesn't stop most remote region of the giant empire! The relationship between the mainly Muslim immigrants and the mainly Christian ones Papua-in the postwar decades became the Danis and West Papua broadly, from a true flood of missionaries invaded and partially until to the own culture loss converts!!-is tenser than ever!
Since decades, she/it leads fighting for a statehood Liberation organization OPM, the Organisasi Papua Merdeka, outside Papua - Movement, an underground fight for the independence IRIAN JAY ACE! Through them/her/it at present, they of Papua demand weak position of the government in Jakarta-like also other regions of Indonesia not only ever more frankly her/its/their independence, also if they desire more and more rights in the everyday life. Above all the right on Human dignity, that the majority of the immigrants in the contact with her/it Urbevölkerung lets missed!
Not rarely, it occurs that our bearers, that we as our friends views, in hotels or restaurants admitted not as well as simply ignored and is not served! Also the resistance to the merciless exploitation of this natural resources existing in the abundance for gold, copper, tin, aluminum, Oil and of course wood becomes louder! The American expression company "Freeport Comp. “has her/its/their exclusive contract with the Indonesian government exactly by 30 percent widened. Freeport settles without Regard to the environment or the people, that until now with and through the nature lived, all from! As biggest taxpayer of Indonesia, Freeport enjoys all imaginable rights. Forests are cleared, whole mountains, rivers, removed poison! Consequently, one steals many natives her/its/their life basis!!! with it also the extermination is interconnected for much of primary and endemic plant types, , without to have found ever reception into a botanical lexicon. Massif also she/it often is threatened endemic with it, for new Guinea typical fauna. World market interests in paradise birds, iguana and crocodile skins, as well as everyone Type of insects leads to a strong decimation of these animals as well! Also this Fact that flows 95 percent of all the money after Jakarta excites the native one Population more and more! However, one can the difficulties for oneself one Independence in the probably single country of the earth, the still white one stains on shows the map, in which one probably still find undetected trunks, it becomes in which one speaks almost 350 languages in which the single connection to meets some people only - as well as weeks-long foot marches are, introduces! One transitional period of several years probably would be the prerequisite about not, like the neighbor, Papua New Guinea, to virtually sink in the chaos. Until 1975 Australian one Treuhand area, PNG attained his/its independence and gets since then his/its Bribery, crime, and alcohol problem no more into the grip! Not only 210 million Indonesians, also people like Kelly and I, that her/its/their heart at this country and his/its people lost, hopes with the elections taking place in June at a political and economic change!
Our anticipation of the second Trek to the Habema-See grows and grows and we are glad as we can begin with the preparations. For this Trek if we need some things more than before. Not only food, also additional, Wool caps for all, wool blankets and rain ponchos for our this 5 bearers.
The Habema-See lies in a plateau in 3300 meters of height-the highest point, him/it we will reach, will lie approximately with 3700 amounts. It is not in this height only at night rather cold, since we must expect rain and much wind but also during the day not more warmly than 10° to 15°C. Moreover, we need a particular one Visa. The Habema-See is partial, with flaring up conflicts between Government and OPM military prohibited area! It pays off once again, good , To have friends. The boss of the tourist police, Ferry with names, supplies us this gladly from. Since we don't take any leader, he/it would like to know, which bearers us will accompany. He/it knows her/it/them all personally and is content with our election. Is reliably all you/they and 2 of them knows the way to the Habema-See. Also Kelly ran this way already twice through the rain forest. Since moreover on the way we ortskundige bearers sign on, nothing can fail. And stands so our Departure in the next morning nothing more in the way.
At 4.30 o'clock, we are awakened by Ibu Hanky with a breakfast of the house. Our bearers like our driver are punctual, which with her/it in Indonesia current Stunning Jam Karet (rubber time) again and again, is. At 6.00 o'clock, it then starts. After a scarce hour on again quite bad streets, we reach fertilizer Ibele our starting point! All are well tempered, we have best weather, therefore best prerequisites for a wonderful day, with wonderful people, in a wonderful country!!!
Already after approximately 15 minutes, it begins uphill to go. Still, we have one properly wide, open way. Past at sweet potato, coffee, and vegetable fields if we run in still unbewaldetem area. The sun burns in the lunchtime mercilessly and the use of sun cream is duty! After approximately 4,5 We get hours to Mulibaga. Since it went more or less uphill continually, all look forward to a rest. After a few "Pallaver “with the villagers and it continues the consumption of three pineapples, that we acquire from an old woman. From Mulibaga to Tailarek, our present-day goal, it goes steeply further 2,5 hours uphill. One must move again and again to pausing, about because of this enormous effort not the wonderful outlook, that offered us again and again, it becomes to overlook. Quite fast, we are also again caught from the rhythm of this Nature: Runs, breathing, drinking, meals, sleeping!!! in Tailarek, a small place with School, amazed eyes expect us. One tells us, the last tourists on visited this way to the Habema-See here over one year ago. As it usual is, we can the kitchen also like all other premises in the house of the teacher against a small payment use also firewood and cook dishes. As Kelly and I about 20.00 o'clock into our tent go and before the door steps, we startle before the blackness of the night! It is the by far blackest night, that ever we experienced, the visibility amounts to no more than 3 to 4 meters. Tailarek lies in one Valley, it is moonless and the heaven covered from a never seen number at Stars. We lay ourselves a while into the grass, about silent the beauty of the night and the indescribable mood, far from all civilization with the voices our , To enjoy friends in the background! Once again, it becomes clear for me, why we us it exposes these strains!!!
As we crawl from our tent at 5.00 o'clock, after a wonderful night, am our coffee already ready. With our hosts and friends, we sit about this Fires, to heat up about us. We are approximately 2300 meters high and it is proper fresh. At 7.00 o'clock, we say goodbye all inhabitants to Tailareks from presumable and runs further direction Daelah-and finally Regenwald! Daelah is the last Village before the forest, until then, it goes steeply on a quite narrow path at the hillside uphill. In Tailarek, we must one little reorganizes-one of our friends stomach problems have and don't can further. About sweet potatoes, vegetables and fruit, this we here buy to be able to carry through the jungle to the lake, we must anyway additional bearers sign on.
Through our friend's cancellation, we need 3 men, that also itself same found. There is an opportunity to go with tourists rare here! After the conditions to our all the contentment is discussed, it goes now finally in direction of jungles. Shortly after Daelah another Highlight. We crosses an approximately 20 meters long real stone age-like bridge! Woven and bound only from rattan ropes and wood planks! One really fascinating
Construction! Then finally, we reach the edge of the jungle.
It is the first touch with real rain forest for me and it is one really touching feeling, to see his/its steps into this quite own world! Already after to a hour, it is clear me that thinks I under these way conditions even small backpack no more can carry. I need my whole strength and Concentration for the ascent steep now only! It also is drafty after a while Kelly before, to let carried his/its backpack. The way conditions are whole others than before. It is wet, marshy, we run on slippery roots, over fallen, mossy trees, through ankles deep mud and without him/it from we often would have our friends beaten stick difficulties, our , To hold balance. We still run steilst uphill in untouched nature 4,5 hours as far as to our goal the Pondok (cottage) Yabogaima.
After our arrival, I could say, with my legs the until now hardest work my life's, to have achieved, and during the whole day no time found, to have, to notice this!!!
This Pondok in the jungle is for everyone, immediately shows recognize-leave, however, that already longer time nobody here was! Two of our friends begin this Bark roof to ausflicken, 4 others are on the way, about firewood to we obtain and beat hedge and grass for a halfway straight one Campsite.
The nature about us is so dense that no sunbeam touches the ground. Everyone Pondok cuts also his/its "stone age-like Garküche “, a hole in the ground. During two kindles of our friends' a big fire in order to heat stones, two put others the hole with leaves from. To the leaves, hot stones then come, again Leaves, then sweet potatoes, leaves, stones etc.-and in the end, so to speak as Covers, a layer with moist earth. Sundries the used leaves, for example Fern leaves serve also as vegetables and taste also us quite well!
After approximately 1,5 hours, we have an exquisite dinner. And experiences again we one of these unforgettable evenings, of which of West Papua to offer so many has!
In an again completely-dark night, we listen to the voices of our friends, him/it, Sounds of the rain forest and is this completely enraptured our earth!!!
Our second jungle day probably is the most beautiful! Again, we run doesn't finish wanting rises, it is even more difficult and also dangerous, for it also this Scenery even more indescribable! With each step, I, another, never think , to enter seen world. I stop no more with the astonishment! We also must astonishment as we only dressed one with shorts, with arrow and Turned equipped Papua meets that pulls through the jungle and itself his/its Food as a hunter obtains. He/it began exactly three birds to grill, that until now somewhat lean harvest for this day. He/it truly also used another "stone age-like lighter “, an approximately 80 cm long, 1 cm wide piece split Rattan-to it a dry branch, that split and on the low side it is notched. He/it stacks somewhat dry grass and leaves around the branch, this puts Rattan piece in the notch and rubs for a very long time, until his/its leaves first smokes and then burns.
Admittedly, a gigantic garbage heap would leave itself this way at one-way lighters avoids, from I as smokers is, as I watch him/it so, however quite gladly, an in my bag, to know. Maybe however also the most natural method itself this Smoke to make stop?! he/it expresses the wish to accompany us and with us , to be able to sleep, therefore we wait, until he/it with his/its meal ready is and , to break, on to our last roost in the jungle.
After an again wonderful evening and deep sleep then the last piece Jungles. Once again, we enjoy them/her/it for ourselves for approximately 3,5 hours surrounding Vegetation, the sounds and this fresh-musty smell of the jungle, this Growth and putrefaction in itself united.
As began fast this dream country rain wood, so fast it finished also again. Quite suddenly, we are in 3300 meters from the forest and on the high plateau out Height, in which hidden, the Habema-See lies. Approximately 100 meters before us the new one Street, that directly from Wamena to the lake and leads even somewhat further.
By car, we would have needed for the same point only approximately 4 hours! Still if we don't see the lake, we have the impressive gaze on the mighty ones for it Mountain ranges of the Jayawijaya-Gebirges with the most second-highest mountain West PapuaS
the 4750 meters high Trikora-Mountain!
Hardly, we are ourselves on the level the dangerously cold wind senses, but and this stun us all, until now, we hardly had considerable rain, which in this Region a true luck is! We change our clothing, long pants, more thickly Sweaters and surprises us over some of our bearers, that nothing besides shorts at the Carries body. One needs probably also feet with Elefantenhaut, around these paths and Ways, to be able to run barefoot.
After a while opposite the rain forest of quite monotonous happen on her/it Street, this describes a bow and we see the whole plateau with him/it Habema-See before us lie.
After another long hour on straight street, this turns to the left to the Pondok-Habema and we have on from here free gaze over the lake, the place, him/it held the civilization move into the highland West PapuaS!
The opinions, whether now this one happy day in the millennia of old history the Urbevölkerung was, separates far!
To the sea doesn't seem to be far from the street, but we require 1,5 further Hours. It gives around the lake to deep swamp only grassy ankles and each step is arduous.
The Pondok gets along approximately 50 meters above the lake and it shines before us in the after-midday sunlight. Also this Pondok must become ausgeflickt, this Roof is leaky and predicts us rain our friends in the night. Here if it needs already a bigger expenditure to collect firewood sufficiently and all are involved at it. We will need much wood, it already now is really cold.
We enjoy this last night of our Treks extensively and also sit longer than usually with our friends at the fire, about the stories from her/its/their world to listens and, to tell you stories from our world.
One good piece of melancholy is also in the game of course, we become coming night spends again in a bed in our hotel in Wamena and in 4 days is we again amid the civilization in Bali, surrounds from tourist streams, internet - Cafes and scrap restaurants! A propos tourists: during our 16 days in the Baliem-Valley got we to see a total of eight, apart from some Missionaries from all the world, that the handle acts in Wamena into the hand, about the native her/its/their "work in God's name “, to do.
As we go into our tent about 22.00 o'clock, it rains rather strongly and this Temperature rather reminds in "GOOD OLD GERMANY on a November night “.
Kelly and I lie long awake in this night and create already plans for them/her/it next Treks. Agreement about it, of which Trek we for our Millenium-Party will run, however, we don't yet achieve. Despite rain, we take our Have breakfast at the landing place Richard Archbolds to us and enjoys once again the gaze on the lake and the silence, that the rattle of the rain hearing procure.
Already about 6.00 o'clock, one of our friends ran back to Wamena, about one, , To charter minibus, and us to entgegenfahren. After our calculations if we then had to meet at the street in the late afternoon. From the Habema - We are closed sea a height difference of 350 to 400 meters once again manages, our more supremely happened point therefore lies with approximately 3700 meters.
It is very uncomfortable, cold wind and continuous drizzle vergraulen us this running rather exhausting through much gravel on the street. Already from wide if we hear our minibus coming. It is approximately 15.30 o'clock and after approximately 2,5 Hours trip still are we in our hotel back before break-in of the dark.
In this night, we don't sleep especially well both, maybe we lack they Sounds of the nature and the fresh air of the forest?!
We use one of our 3 in Wamena of remaining days to one Part-time trip, to an important place in the life of the Dani, the saltwater source, close to Jiwika. A path steep very beautifully however also leads, past at Jiwika through dense forest on a rise. We have luck and arrive as we, 2 women are exactly with the groundwork to the salt extraction. For example 1,5 meters long banana trees is clapped, so that she/it itself in layers, has skinned similarly an onion. You/they become 5 times 3 meters big basins into this for several hours put, between it again and again, in order to make her/it/them absorbent, knocked. This Women carry the full-sucked banana trees in partially days-long Foot marches back into her/its/their village, the carried weight can up to 40 kg on that occasion amounts. The banana trees are dried going back in the villages and burned, the ash on the other hand into leaves wound and with demand of the food inflicted. This saline ash is in different regions until today high-dealt exchange property! After a comfortable descent, we drive at the early one Afternoon back to Wamena.
We spend our last day in the Baliem-Valley among others with pile. Since itself meanwhile some souvenirs accumulated, it needs several attempts, , to stow all as transportable as possible, and we already now have our Misgivings, whether we bring also all safely until Bali.
A last "Trek “to the market is inevitable, as well farewell visits with our friends. Also at the street, we meet a lot of people, that from knows our departure and itself of us says goodbye. This evening remains our narrowest friends reservations.
We invited her/it/them to a small farewell party in our hotel and spends us together with these once again a wonderful evening so very much at the heart of grown people.
In the next morning, all goes very fast. Our flight back to Jayapura goes at 9.00 o'clock. With 8 Papua this, to give a farewell for us, came, we bring our luggage to the airport. Since it is only 3 minutes of footpath to our hotel, if we wait all for our 25-year old Fokker there. The weather also is good and with it is not a flight cancellation, that occurs here on occasion, to be reckoned.
As we hear our Fokker flying in, all our friends accompany us to one last embrace, a last finger flip and a last Wah, Wah,
Much time was not in the relative Hektik of the small airport for Farewell pain. He/it comes over us first, as we a last gaze on this Throwing Grand Baliem Valley, already in the air is.
Kelly and me are only too much conscious that itself much up to our return will change, at this indescribably beautiful place! Also this People will be others, they become for itself the realities of the civilization, this unrestricted over her/it/them closes in, adjusts-wanted or unintentionally?!
We hope earnestly that they become at the tasks set in the future at her/it/them and doesn't fail circumstances and it won't go for them like much other nature people?!-for example its ethnic relatives in Papua new Guinea.
We spend this night with our friend Chris Korua, whose restaurant and Hotel very beautifully directly at the Sentani-See lies, before we in the next morning over Biak and Ujung Pandang back to Bali fly. Of course not without us still , to let bewitched once, of the offer of the antique stores in Hammadi and this quite particular atmosphere of the night market in Jayapura!
And so our dream trip finishes after 3 weeks-or however a trip like in the Dream?!-at the end of the street this planet!
Not for the first time, we ask ourselves the question, whether we with our way of this unkind economic growth not into a dead end steers, from her/it it someday only maybe a way gives, the way back to the nature! Do we protect the past-going back into the future?!
I would like to thank my friend and companions KELLY WOOLFORD, who opened the doors for me after West Papua far, family DOROWAY, that us with her/its/their indescribable warm-heartedness into the family picked up, family HANKY for her/its/their affectionate Umsorgung in the hotel Anggerek, LEAKY, that the best all bearers and best friend, ONES for his/its help with all technical questions, FERRY for the visa to the Habema-See, BAPAK (father), MAMPAI, that sold only the best merchandise to us in his/its small business, RAHMAT for many beautiful evenings in his/its antique store, CHRIS KORUA for many, good information also about the history IRIAN JAY ACE, WENDESON, JIMMY, BENNY, YESAYA, SAM PAYOKWA, KAREL and all of our grown fond of one(s), Friends in the Grand Baliem Valley and completely West Papua!
Further information also about trips after and tours of West Papua gets you/they under
Fon: +49 6341 / 34 86 51
Fax: +49 6341 / 34 86 53